Elegant My Chicken Coop Plan - Basic Chicken Coop Provisions

My Chicken Coop Plan - Basic Chicken Coop Provisions

In today's article, we are going to take a look at the key chicken coop provisions required. When you first develop your chicken coop plan, providing for proper housing and related features is absolutely necessary to keep your chickens in excellent physical shape, contented and happy. You will do best in your efforts if your chickens are as "contented as a cow," so to speak.

As I stated once before, you will do best if you consider your chickens to be pets instead of just livestock. Most people tend to take better care of their animals when they have the mindset that they are pets. The happier and healthier your chickens are, the faster and stronger they will grow and the more egg production you will get.

Perhaps the most important feature of your chicken coop plan is that of safety. You like to feel safe in your home right? Well, so do your pets. (Notice the pet mindset there!) Your chicken coop must be predator proof from all sides. Make sure that all openings are protected with the correct size wire mesh, typically 15 mm ( 5/8 inches) square so that no predator can reach into the chicken coop. Not even your cat! That's right, your cat should be considered a predator too!

Also, make sure the area surrounding the chicken coop is protected with the same 15 mm square fencing and buried at least 30 cm (1 ft) below ground level. This will prevent sly foxes and or wily coyotes from entering the chicken house.

Next, be certain that the chicken coop itself is well ventilated. This will help to prevent respiratory disease. Ever hear a chicken cough! Just kidding, they can't cough, but they can get sick!

Make sure the coop has a section that is not in the direct flow of air. Chickens can stand cold weather, but they cannot stand being in the direct cold air flow path for too long.

Provide roosting poles for the birds because that is how they sleep! (And you thought they needed beds!) Make sure there is adequate spacing so they do not crowd one another when roosting. You don't want to ruffle any feathers! They'll do that well enough on their own.

Then be sure the chicken coop is easy to clean. Place removable plastic trays under the roosting poles for easy removal of droppings. Yes, this is the nastiest job, but some ones gotta do it! Hey, maybe you can get one of the kids to do it!

Now also make sure you provide for nesting boxes. You should put one nesting box for four or five birds in a dark corner of the coop which will encourage the little ladies to lay eggs. The nesting boxes should be a little off the floor, but lower than the roosting poles inside.
You also need to make sure there is enough room for the the little buggers to roam around and play. A good rule of thumbs is 4-5 square feet per bird.

Then, last but not least, there must be a waterer and feeder. You don't want your pets to go hungry or thirsty do you?

Now for today's Stupid Chicken Joke!

Why did the chicken cross the "net?"

To get to the other site!

Oooh, that's a keeper!

Best of Basic Pool Care

Basic Pool Care

Once you have this down, you're going to be the envy of the neighborhood.

1. Check the levels of your swimming pool chlorine, pH, alkalinity, and hardness. Keep your pH levels between 7.6 and 7.8, not 7.2.  You'll use up too much acid to keep it that low.  Get your alkalinity in check, 80-100, then adjust your pH.

Try to not go over 8.0.   This will help with the water chemical balance and spa maintenance.

2. Test and maintain your chlorine between 1.0-3.0ppm. Most pool techs will tell you to keep your chlorine levels between 1.0-3.0ppm. This will help keep the pool algae away.

I choose to keep the chlorine at this level, 3.0ppm, because I want to have a buffer zone, especially when I'm expecting a large bather load.

Nothing eats up chlorine faster on a bright sunny day than having a large bather load with kids......who stay in the pool......for very long periods of time......and don't come out of the pool......for anything......and I mean ANYTHING.

3. Everyone needs to check their floaters with their chlorine tablets or swimming pool chemical feeders and keep it full at all times. NEVER put pool chlorine tablets in your skimmer.

When your pump turns off the tabs keep dissolving. When the pump turns back on your system will get a highly concentrated dose of acid and chlorinated water that will, over time, wreak havoc on your

If anyone tells you it's alright to put chlorine tablets in the swimming pool skimmer, just nod and smile, then walk away. They either don't know or understand proper swimming pool water maintenance, or they're trying to sell you something, like a new filtration system.

4. Use "No Mor Problems" from United Chemical Corp. I've seen its effectiveness and know how well it works. I like United Chemical's ideas on pool water maintenance and they have some really good swimming pool maintenance tips.

5. Empty the skimmer baskets and, using a wide-mouth and deep pocket leaf rake, remove leaves, insects and other debris from both the pool surface and the bottom. You'll need the right kinds of cleaning parts to pull this off. You may also want to invest in a brush that can easily remove the hard-to-reach debris that collects and sticks to the tile at the water line.

6. Brush the walls and steps weekly and vacuum the bottom when necessary. You may want to vacuum every other week but especially after a windy dust storm. Be sure to backwash your filter after you vacuum or after excessive sweeping of dirt and debris found on the bottom of the pool.

Vacuum as you would vacuum your carpet, beginning at the shallow end and work your way down.

Remember to go slowly as the dirt will seem to "fly up" and you'll get frustrated because more dirt is floating in the water than going into the filter.

7. Backwash once per month or when the pressure is too high, usually about 10-12psi.

8. Only use the water you need to keep your pool at its proper level, about 3" up from the bottom of the skimmer. You may want to invest in a automatic water-filler or just keep an eye on the hose while you're topping off the pool.

9. If you have an automatic pool cleaner, be sure it's in proper working condition. Check with your pool professional if there are signs of wear on your cleaner or it's simply not cleaning properly.

Now the big thing is the pH and alkalinity.  Without going into too much detail, I'll try to explain.

Most pool guys and pool shops will tell you to keep your pH around 7.2 and your alkalinity about 100-120ppm.  This is simply not right.  And here's why...

They get their infomation from an index call the "Langelier Index" which was originally used for public water systems and was introduced to pools in the mid 1950's because there simply was no other system.. 

It's a good system, but just the wrong application. 

The Hamilton Index was specifically designed for pools.  By using the Hamilton Index you will see an decrease in your chemical usage along with an increase in your wallett, and who couldn't use that?

I don't completely agree with the Hamilton Index, but it is closer to how a pool should be balanced than the other index. 

Having a great swimming pool your entire family can enjoy should be easy, once you know and understand basic pool care.  Remember not to over-think or over-complicate swimming pool care by adding this and that and the other thing.  Keep it simple, understand your chemicals, stick to the basics, and you're on your way to being the envy of the neighborhood.

Happy Swimming